Heat the olive oil in a large heavy pot over medium-high. Brown the ground beef until deeply browned, about 8 minutes. Transfer to a plate.

Reduce heat to medium, add onion, carrot, and celery with a pinch of salt. Cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook 1 minute, then add tomato paste and cook 2 minutes, stirring constantly.

Pour in the red wine, scrape up browned bits, and simmer until reduced by half, about 2 minutes. Return the beef and any juices to the pot.

Stir in crushed tomatoes, bay leaf, oregano, pepper, and sugar if using. Bring to a gentle simmer, then lower heat to low. Partially cover and cook for at least 1 hour, stirring occasionally, until thick and rich. Add salt to taste.

Remove the bay leaf and stir in the cold butter until melted. Ladle over hot cooked pasta and serve with Parmesan and torn basil.