Bring a pot of water to a boil. Add the spinach, cook for 90 seconds until wilted, then drain and rinse with cold water. Squeeze gently and set aside.

Heat 1½ tbsp oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add cumin seeds and cook until they pop, about 30 seconds. Add onion and cook until softened, 5 minutes. Stir in garlic, ginger, and chili and cook for 2 minutes.

Transfer the onion mixture to a blender. Add the spinach, turmeric, garam masala, salt, sugar, and cold water. Blend until completely smooth.

Wipe the skillet clean, then warm the remaining ½ tbsp oil over medium heat. Pour in the purée and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the colour deepens slightly.

Lower the heat, fold in the paneer, and warm through for 2 minutes. Spoon into bowls, sprinkle with extra garam masala, and serve hot.